Wine Talk & Review: 2009

YARD DOG WHITE - 2006

>> 3/31/09

From McClaren Vale, Australia. White blend of 55% Chardonnay, 15% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Riesling, 10% Semillon, 5% Viognier. 13.7% alcohol.

TASTING NOTES:

Pale yellow color. Fair amount of acidity. Light, smooth, dry and bright with citrus on the nose. Pear and melon dominate the mid-palate with honey on the finish.

SCORE & RECOMMENDATION:

85 PTS

Reminds me of an average Pinot Grigio. Drinkable and a solid value at $9 a bottle but not at all exciting. I wouldn't exactly recommend this wine, but I think it is pleasant enough to be enjoyed by many

CHATEAU MALMAISON BARONNE NADINE DE ROTHSCHILD - 2000

75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. 12.5% alcohol.

TASTING NOTES:

Dark garnet color with leather, pencil and barnyard on the nose. Lots of sediment in the wine with earth, floral and dark berries being the predominant flavors. Somewhat monolithic and mellow.

SCORE & RECOMMENDATION:

86 PTS

Average effort. Not very exciting. Chewy tannins that lean a toward the bitter side. Drinkable wine but questionable QPR at $30

PINE RIDGE RUTHERFORD CABERNET SAUVIGNON - 2003

From Napa Valley. Primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec blended in. 14.4% alcohol.

TASTING NOTES:

Rich red color and vibrant nose of raspberries and creamy oak. Loads of cherry and pomegranate are underscored by nice vanilla oak notes and a cranberry finish. Some tobacco, black fruits and minerality on the mid-palate. Somewhat chewy with great complexity as this wine evolves in the glass. Very smooth.

SCORE & RECOMMENDATION:

92 PTS

Retails for around $45 a bottle. Very impressive wine that took me by surprise. I was not expecting as much depth and character based on some previous Pine Ridge Cabs I had recently tasted. Very pleased with this effort and worth the price tag.

2004 Bell Sonnette

I had a crazy idea the other day of a vaguely Japanese steak dinner, something to break up the meat-and-potatoes routine. Or the organ meat and odd critters routine. I started things off with some miso soup. I cheated here, using a concentrated miso import, but my fellow diners and I were very happy with the results. To the savory broth I added chopped green onions, cubed firm tofu, and plenty of enoki mushrooms. Enokitake have a great buttery flavor, as well as a texture that's like a bean sprout when raw and like a noodle in soup. Don't overcook these, but they add a lot of flavor to dishes. (Plus I love the fact that they look like some crazy wild thing you'd find growing on a dead log in the forest. Forbidden fungus... Mmmmmmm...)
I promise that I'll get my konbu and katsuobushi together to make a real bowl of miso shiru. Watch this blog for a future update!
For the main course I had organic grass-fed ribeyes marinating in soy sauce, slow roasted to rare in the oven and then seared off in a hot skillet. I also made another batch of the Napa cabbage and watermelon radish slaw from a few posts ago. Might as well enjoy it while those beautiful radishes are still around.
The wine was the true star of the evening. The 2004 Bell Sonnette is from Napa and was a real treat. $50, 14.6% abv. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 11% Petite Verdot. This was a gift from my friend Paul, and I'm going to be hard pressed to top this one in 2009. I've always been a fan of Bell, and this little treasure is worth getting if you can find it--this was bottle 212 of 2398. (He got it from Wolfchase Wine & Spirits, I don't know if anyone else has it.) It's curious to think that, assuming two people per bottle, only 5000 people will get to try this wonderful wine. Makes me wonder what small run wines will never even cross my path.
There's a nose of chicory coffee, plum, and nutmeg. Medium tannins with dark berry flavors and a long, long finish. It's distinctly California without being a fruit bomb. Excellent balance, and I commend the nearly quarter volume given to Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot, two wonderful grapes that so often are only present as a splash.
I don't do a lot of Asian cooking (and this meal barely qualifies), but I think I've been neglecting it in my culinary self-education. Plus it gives me the excuse to try a whole lot of new weird and wonderful ingredients.

2005 Educated Guess Cabernet Sauvignon

Over at Wolfchase Wine & Spirits beside Costco I came across the 2005 Educated Guess Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. $20, 14.1% abv. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 2% Petite Verdot, 1% Malbec.
There's only one way to sum up the first impression of this wine: cherry and cream cheese Danish. There's a jammy cherry element, then a buttery/toasty pastry aroma, followed by a creamy undertone that makes you crave a cup of coffee. Once it hits all parts of the tongue and goes down the gullet, you've got some tart acidity, firm tannins, and a little bitter finish. After breathing, there are notes of fresh cut grass and green pepper. Nicely complex, and I'd be curious to see how this develops with even more time in the cellar.
I keep saying "don't buy wines based on the label", yet I keep doing it. What can I say... a blackboard full of chemistry diagrams (specifically regarding oxidation and reduction)? The memory scent of chalk dust tickling my brain? I'm a sucker for certain fonts, artists, and references. It's kind of like the old advice that fancy fishing lures aren't made to catch fish, they're made to catch fishermen.
Keep this in mind as a gift for that quiet 20-something in your family that spends far too much time reading science fiction novels and playing video games, but give it with the condition that he has to drink it with a girl... that's not his mom or sister.
I'm not trying to be cruel here, I'm saying this as someone that once spent more time around elderly librarians than available women my own age. Some of the best advice I ever got was from a beloved great uncle who, upon giving me a graduation gift, said, "I want you to spend this on wine, women, and song. If you try to spend this on books or anything practical I'll kick your ass." Based on his background in military intelligence I really didn't have a choice.

JUST TALK: WINE & PHILOSOPHY

I recently had the opportunity to review a copy of Dr. Fritz Allhoff's book "Wine & Philosophy". A compilation of a series of essays, it is a very good read that has lots of interesting ways of looking at wine. A historical look that spans various time periods and civilizations, this book lets the reader see how wine has been viewed over the many years it has been enjoyed by mankind. With chapters including "The Art & Culture of Wine", "Tasting & Talking about Wine" and "The Politics & Economics of Wine" to name a few, you can see that this isn't just any old book on wine. My favorite essay is entitled "Talk about Wine?" by Kent Bach. He points out that being able to talk about wine requires experience at drinking wine as well as learning a special vocabulary. This sums up my experience with wine and probably everyone who learns to appreciate the different varietals of wine available. That is also my excuse, I guess, for my continued quest to find different, affordable wines which I think with time, and trial and error, you start to develop a knack for. Check out Dr. Allhoff's book if you get a chance. It's an interesting read and would also make a nice gift for that someone special who enjoys wine. I noticed that it is also on sale at Amazon.com right now. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine!

2004 MADDALENA CABERNET SAUVIGNON

There's only been one other time that I've rated two different varietals from the same winery as high as my last two ratings. As you may recall from my last post, if you didn't read it please look below, #1 and I absolutely loved the Sauvignon Blanc from Maddalena Vineyards. Not expecting near as much out of the 2004 Maddalena Cabernet Sauvignon, we opened this and let it breathe for thirty minutes or so. I poured a small tasting amount into my glass and swirled for a few seconds. Not the dark, ruby red you see in some Cabernets but more of a medium red color. As I took a nice, full amount of aroma into my nostrils, I was greeted with vanilla, plum and spices. On the palate I picked up raspberry, spiced cherries, a little bit of caramel and maybe just a little oak. Tannins were almost non-existent and this wine had a silky finish that made me want more. Lots more! Having enjoyed this bottle as much as their Sauvignon, I had to find out more. These grapes are sourced from the Cass, Erickson and Steinbeck vineyards and aged in new and used oak barrels from French and American coopers. This wine was rated 88 points by Wine Spectator and was a Gold Medal winner at the Los Angeles County Fair. Retail price on this one is $13.95 but a recent check of the San Antonio Winery site showed it on sale at $12.95. Believe me. That's a steal at either price! Another very easy 5 Corkscrew rating. I thought I might be getting a little too easy in my ratings but #1 agrees wholeheartedly and she's a much tougher rater than I am. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Maddalena Cabernet Sauvignon for a real Treat!

2006 MADDALENA SAUVIGNON BLANC from SAN ANTONIO WINERY

"That wine you got is great!", were the exact words #1 greeted me with tonight as I walked into the house from a hard days work. Or at least a days work! With that kind of endorsement behind it I couldn't wait to try it myself. From the San Antonio Winery located where? You guessed it, Los Angeles, California. Don't let the name of the winery, or its location in Los Angeles, California, dissuade you from trying their wines. If the rest of their offerings are as good as this one, I can't wait to get my hands on more. This 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, from their Maddalena Vineyards, is made of grapes sourced from the Steinbeck Vineyard in Paso Robles. On the nose we got loads of clean, fresh citrus and a touch of "grassiness" as the vineyard puts it. I think that's a good way to sum up the clean, refreshing nose on this wine. On the palate more of the "non-sour" citrus as I like to refer to it. No grapefruit here, just lots of melon, green apple, maybe some kiwi? A nice, semi-dry finish, made me long for much, much more of this wine. In fact, every since we tried this #1 has been after me to get some more. Probably one of the easiest 5 Corkscrews I've ever awarded! And since it was so good, I decided to do a little more research to find out how the winemakers were able to do it. Stainless steel fermentation at 55 degrees for several weeks followed with 10% of the batch transferred to neutral oak barrels in which the lees are stirred for several months to add to the flavor and body. Maybe that's the key but whatever it is, this is a really, really good Sauvignon Blanc. And at a retail price of $11.95, how can you go wrong? Hurry out and buy a case or two of this before San Antonio Winery figures out they've priced it too low. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Maddalena Sauvignon Blanc!

JUST PHOTOGRAPHY: ARIZONA

Late March and I had the good fortune to travel to Arizona with the family for Spring Break and a three-day conference. I'll be posting a couple of wine reviews from that trip but wanted to go ahead and share some of the photos I had the opportunity to take. Today's photos are from Sedona, Arizona and the Chapel of the Holy Cross. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine!

Camera Nikon D80, f/4.8. 1/400s, VR 18-55 lens at 30mm
ISO 140

NORTH AMERICAN WINE BLOGGERS CONFERENCE

Just a quick note to all my fellow wine bloggers/writers that there is going to be a Wine Bloggers Conference in Sonoma County October 24-26. Further information can be found at http://www.winebloggersconference.org/ . Should be a good time and I'm sure a lot of good wine will be tasted by all. Wish I could attend but I'm afraid I'm going to have to pass unless some deep pocketed wine consortium wants to send me? Yeah, right! Drop me a line if you plan on attending. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine!

2006 LEESE - FITCH CHARDONNAY & KYBECCA ON THE TABLE

My second visit to a local wine store ended up with my car stopping in front of Kybecca on the Table , also in historic Fredericksburg, Virginia. This is the kind of wine store I'd like to open some day! Lots of affordable wines, a good sized artisan cheese selection and a lot of other items that you might want to pick up. They've also got a great web site and two locations in the Fredericksburg area. Very friendly and helpful staff made this shopping trip very enjoyable. I picked up a bottle of the 2006 Leese-Fitch Chardonnay based strictly on the unique corking system. You unfurl the plastic which leaves you with a nice plastic cork that easily fits back in the bottle. Since it was only $10/bottle I took a chance and purchased this one. Somewhat dry this Chardonnay, although from California, is made more in the "french style" which is, how does she say it, a good thing! Nice balanced fruit on the palate with an excellent soft finish. Did I mention it's a little dry? This one comes from the Don Sebastiani & Sons megaconglomerate, but I highly recommend it if you like the french styling of chardonnay. I gave it 4 Corkscrews and will purchase more in the future. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine & Check out Kybecca

2005 FOREST VILLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON AND MARRIOTT COURTYARD

Well 365Corks is relocating to the Northern Virginia area after 2 1/2 years in a wine wasteland known as Little Rock, Arkansas. Love the area, people are great, but the wine availability is some of the worst of anywhere I've lived and the state legislature is hard at work trying to raise the tax rate on wine even more! I guess being ranked #5 of states with the highest tax on wine isn't good enough and they're striving to be #1. Still can't have wine shipped to you in the state. According to the good Governor, teenagers might order wine and have it shipped to them. You can't make this stuff up! On my relocation trip I stayed at the Alcoa (Knoxville, Tenn area) Courtyard by Marriott hotel. Great rate, nicely updated room, and a few munchies, cheese, crackers, chips and cookies at happy hour. Wine and Beer aren't free, $1 for Beer, $2 for Wine and Liquor, (probably a state law or something that they can't give it to you), but they are still affordable. That being said I ordered a glass of the 2005 Forest Ville Cabernet Sauvignon and $2.19 later I had my first taste. Not tons of fruit but drinkable and very little tanin. It was worth every penny of the $2.19! Not a great wine but worked out fine after a good eight hours on the road. I probably wouldn't pay a whole lot for this wine, I see it listed for $5.99/bottle on the Internet, which is probably the most I would pay. Not a lot of deep flavors but nothing off-putting either. I gave this one 3 Corkscrews based on its very affordable price and drink ability. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine and Look out Northern Virginia!

2005 SAWBUCK CHARDONNAY

Today's reviewed wine is the product of a trip to Fayetteville, Arkansas for a gymnastics meet my favorite 10 year old was competing in. We made it a family trip and overall had a good time. We stayed at the Hampton Inn in Fayetteville which I can't highly recommend. Really small rooms and evidently no insulation or soundproofing was used in our room as we easily heard our neighbors every conversation late into the night. We picked up the 2005 Sawbuck Chardonnay for $6.99 at Liquor World a few miles from the University of Arkansas. I've been on their email newsletter list for some time and I guess I was expecting a little more. They've got a huge selection of wine but it is located in a strip mall and the store felt somewhat cavernous. I guess I like my wine stores a little more upscale and their pricing wasn't a whole lot better than what I've been able to find in Little Rock. On to the review. My first experience with this wine was less than memorable. Nothing on the nose and my first glass of this reminded me more of a Sauvignon Blanc. Very light, no oak or body to speak of and just uneventful. I admit this is a little old for a Chardonnay and may have been better in it's day. That being said my initial reaction was to give this a low 2 Corkscrews but after drinking this for a couple of days my mind has been changed. The second day this one was much better and earned another Corkscrew much to my surprise. Final tally, 3 Corkscrews based on price and taste. Don't kill yourself trying to find this but if you can find it for $5 or less, by all means give it a try. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine!

Chilean Carménère

>> 1/20/09

Augustus D. Juilliard, founder of the famous New York conservatory
Paul Revere, silversmith and patriot during the American Revolution
John James Audubon, painter and ornithologist
What do these three people have in common? All were born in the Americas of French parents who sailed across the Atlantic for better opportunities, and these children did great things with their lives in the Western Hemisphere.
Pinot Noir never needed to leave France; the successful stay home. Yes, it has accomplished much in California and New Zealand, but Burgundy still holds the World Welterweight Championship for this grape. Semillon has been planted all over the globe yet has never achieved the sublime glory of Sauternes from Bordeaux.
But for various reasons including Phylloxera France abandoned, neglected, or ignored a handful of native grapes that took root and flourished elsewhere, particularly in South America. Tannat in Uruguay. Malbec in Argentina. And in Chile, a grape that was misidentified for years as Merlot, nearly forgotten, and recently developed to incredible new heights: Carménère.
It's interesting to note that the current president of Chile is Michelle Bachelet, the great-great granddaughter of a French wine merchant who emigrated to Chile in 1860, a few years after the arrival of Carménère.
With a glass raised south toward the honored country for Memphis in May 2009, here are six great Chilean Carménères that I tried with friends and family over a long dinner.

Note: All wines were tasted alone before dinner, with food during the various courses, and one last time after dinner.
The first wine opened during the appetizer course (green grapes and Dubliner cheese) was the 2007 Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Carménère. 100% Carménère from the Rapel Valley, $10. Vegetal, green tomato leaf aroma, with cherry and licorice flavors. This, like the rest of the Carmeneres, was dark and deep purple.
For the first course, I roasted a rack of lamb (marinated in a Chinese tea--more on that in a future post) and seared in a skillet. I paired it with Raichlen's chimichurri sauce, a traditional South American accompaniment to roast meat. Avocado and kiwi are important Chilean exports, so I threw them on the plate as well. A little dry salami rounded things out.
With the first course I served two wines. The 2006 Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Carménère is 86% Carménère, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot from the Rapel Valley, $15. Smooth and rich with aromas of green bell pepper and flavors of black cherry. The 2006 San Pedro 1865 Single Vineyard Carménère is 100% Carménère from the Maule Valley, $17. Grassy, with Haut-Medoc characteristics after breathing. Flavors included plum and black pepper. Surprising complexity over the course of the evening.
Next up was a course of French onion soup served in coffee mugs with baguette rounds toasted with shredded Gruyère. (Particularly in a dinner party setting, I love serving soup in cups. Smaller portions, easier distribution.) Here I served the 2006 Caliterra Tribute Carménère, 86% Carménère, 10% Merlot, 4% Merlot from the Colchagua Valley, $17. Bright raspberry aromas, with smooth coffee and chocolate flavors after breathing.
For the third course we took an intermission: with a nod to the seafood traditions of Chile, an ensalada de camarones, or shrimp salad. Tossed with a white wine/Dijon/honey vinaigrette, cherry tomatoes, red onions, and grapes over mesclun greens. Served with sparkling water to clear the palate and ready the taste buds for the next plating...
The fourth course was a (not pictured) ribeye roast cooked to a perfect medium rare and served with a trio of Hollandaise, leftover chimichurri sauce, and a horseradish/sour cream sauce. The side dish (much loved by my sister-in-law) was sherry vinegar and molasses glazed carrots. With the beef I poured the last two wines, starting with the 2005 Estampa Gold Carménère Assemblage Red Blend, 53% Carménère, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, from the Colchagua Valley, $22. This was my favorite of the evening, combining a gorgeous eucalyptus and earth aroma with tart cherry flavors. A hint of anise completed the whole experience. Also well received around the table was the great 2006 De Martino "Alto de Piedra" Single Vineyard Carménère, 100% Carménère from the Maipo Valley, $30. Violets and spice aromas, blackberry flavors and a firm tannic finish.
To finish things off, honored guests the Squirrels were kind enough to make shortbread stuffed with a persimmon filling and topped with Bourbon-flavored whipped cream. Though belts were being loosened throughout the dining room, this dessert was a big hit and a definite new flavor for many at the table. Personally I want to see this dish replace pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving.
Dessert was accompanied by a handful of Ports that were on hand, but this post is all about Chile and the wonderful wines produced on the West Coast of South America.
For more on Chilean wines (not just Carmenere), be sure to check out Wines of Chile for lots of great links and information.

Last Minute Sparkling Wine Recommendations

For those of you doing your shopping on the way to a party tonight, here's some sparkling wine recommendations. Whenever you see "NV" in my reviews, it means "non-vintage", or there's no particular year ascribed to the wine--it might be a mix of multiple vintages, or it might just be an inexpensive table wine. It should not be inferred that they are produced in the state of Nevada. Also, I rarely if ever drink proper Champagne. It's more of a cost concern than anything else, but there are loads of tasty sparklers from all over the world, including the non-Champagne regions of France.
First, here are 23 previous posts that include information on sparkling wine. Most of them are great little wines, just stay away from the Soviet Champagne of Belarus. I can still taste that abomination months later.
Second, check out Fredric Koeppel's annual 12 Days of Christmas salute to sparkling wines. He's got some great bottles there and there's very little overlap in the bubbly we've reviewed.
Now for a few of my own that have been sitting in the review queue for a while...
One that can be found nearly everywhere is the NV Yellowtail Sparkling Rosé, which runs for around $7. Beautiful light salmon color, dry and crisp with raspberry aromas and flavors. The large bubbles give it a soda mouthfeel. Not as fruity as I'd imagined, and it had a slightly bitter finish I wasn't expecting (note that I love bitter flavors, and they show up from time time in all sorts of wine). I couldn't find any information on the grapes used here, but I was really surprised at how much I enjoyed this. Sparkling rosés are a growing segment of the sparkler market, and this might be easier for you to find than some of the European bottles.
Prosecco is a longtime favorite here at BWR, and increased production in Italy and elsewhere means that there are new brands to try every year. On general principles I'd avoid the Austrian one packaged in cans and promoted by Paris Hilton. Instead, why not try something like the Italian NV Martini & Rossi Prosecco. $12, a light 10.5% abv. It's got a little orange peel aroma, light bubbles in the frizzante style, and crisp lemon and almond flavors. Great bargain bottle that's conveniently enclosed with a beer bottle cap, meaning that this should be perfect for taking to parties. (A few other Prosecco and sweet Moscato d'Asti wines are capped like this--great for BBQs or other informal gatherings.)
It's not pictured here, but I'd highly recommend anything from Domaine Ste. Michelle, particularly the Blanc de Noirs. The varieties range from dry to sweet, some blends, some single grape. These are affordable, delicious sparkling wines from Washington state, and I always keep one on hand in case I need something to kick off a dinner. The voluptuous Ste. Michelle bottles can often be found for as little as $12, which is a real steal. And of course the sparkling wines of Gruet in New Mexico will always have a special place in my heart.
What will I be drinking on New Year's Eve? The Spanish NV Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad. $25, 12% abv. Penedès region of Spain. I've had it before, but I've really been in a Cava mood lately. Plus, you've got to admire a bottle that eschews the label for a metal badge. Certainly the guys from Dethklok would approve.
I hope all of you have a happy and safe New Year, and be sure to eat your black eyed peas!
P.S. In the comments, be sure to note your bubbles of choice for ringing in the New Year. Or if you went in a different direction--say the family tradition is 6 Puttonyos Tokaji--list that as well. I think my first NYE adult beverage was a sip of peach schnapps in the late 80s.

Benito vs. the Cigar: Oliva Serie V

For the first cigar review of 2009, a product line that's been showing up on a lot of Top 10 lists for 2008 is represented here by the Oliva Serie V Special Figurado Nicaragua, 6"x60.
Thick, creamy smoke on this one, with flavors of chocolate, vanilla, and a little coffee. The perfecto shape is a little unusual but is a traditional style and can be a unique experience.
The book is The Yiddish Policemen's Union by Michael Chabon. It's an alternative history novel, in which WWII ended differently and European/Russian Jews settled in Sitka, Alaska instead of Israel. (This was a real proposal at the time.) So you end up with a whole Yiddish-speaking micronation right next to native tribal lands. And despite being a novel about Jews in Alaska, it never repeats themes or jokes from Northern Exposure, though I did guffaw at the nickname "The Frozen Chosen".
At the heart of it all is a murder mystery that has to be solved by our Jewish detective and his half-Tlingit sidekick Berko. It's an interesting read but it really helps to know in advance about the alternative history elements.
Going back in time a bit, an author that seemingly required a cigar in hand to be able to write, breathe, or function as a human was Mark Twain. Starting at the age of 8, he consumed upwards of twenty cigars a day for the rest of his life, only purchasing the cheapest, nastiest cigars possible. For his personal cigar philosphy, read his brief essay "Concerning Tobacco".
If you're interested in reading some modern cigar writing, start at Cigar Inspector and then follow the blogroll links. Denis, a Bordeaux enthusiast, wrote me recently about the overlap between cigar- and wine-blogging, and while there's a lot of participant crossover, it doesn't show up much in the writing. As always, I love to hear from readers, and let me know if you're a fan of both cigars and wine, two true pleasures on God's green earth.

Wine Gift Set

It never hurts to have multiple corkscrews around the house or elsewhere. I keep at least one upstairs, one downstairs, and in my luggage. Some folks keep one in the car's glove compartment (in case of emergencies, of course).
My first corkscrew was on my Swiss Army Knife I got at the age of 11, and although it's a little tricky I've successfully used it over the years, even when I was way too young to drink wine. My second corkscrew served me well in the years after high school before finally self destructing on a problematic synthetic cork. All of the rest that are in use at Casa Benito were gifts from friends or business associates. And the corkscrew makes a great gift: everyone needs one, even if he or she is not a frequent wine drinker.
While the holidays are over, for those in business it's increasingly important to retain clients. Personalized gifts can be a great way to remind your customers how much you appreciate their business, as well as providing a reminder that will keep your name in circulation for years afterward. The Cutter & Buck American Classic Wine Set from FortePromo.com comes in an attractive leather case and includes three tools: a waiter-style corkscrew, a pouring spout, and a metal ring with a felt lining for catching the drips. (The felt ring is the one wine gadget I didn't have before--but it helps save the tablecloth as well as preserving the label for photos or if you like to peel and save your wine labels.)
The nice thing about this is that it doesn't take up a lot of space. It's about 6" x 2" x 4½" and looks classy when closed and sitting on a desk. My big rabbit corkscrew comes in something the size of a shoebox. The corkscrew performs well as do the other components. You can also check out some of their other wine accessories.
Disclaimer: I'm not receiving financial compensation for this review or for sales of this product. It's a genuinely good product that fits my wine needs, and I enjoy supporting companies that produce such wine/food accessories.

2007 Albet i Noya Xarel-Lo

It's time for a lovely little Spanish white: this is the 2007 Albet i Noya Xarel-Lo. $14, 12% abv. Grapefruit and apricot aromas, with just a little earth and overripe bananas. This has big, strong acidity, with heavy grapefruit peel flavors. Oh please, give me some garlicky shellfish to go with this wine. Or just take me to a beach and give me a sharp rock, I'll find something salty and edible.
I love this wine but this name/grape combination might as well be Chinese for most folks. For the benefit of Google searches, I'm going to break it down in excruciating detail. Let's start with the grape part. Unlike Chardonnay and Chablis, you'll probably never encounter a stripper with the stage name Xarel-Lo.
How do you pronounce Xarel-Lo? This varies a bit depending on the specific town you're from in Northeast Spain, but either sha-REL-lo or cha-REL-lo works. Want something easier? Remember that your friend Cheryl Lowe recommended it to you. It's a light white grape that's used to make the sparkling wine Cava as well as still wines like this example. That high acid serves as a good clue: fine Champagnes are so high in acidity as to be virtually undrinkable before the second fermentation. This wine is nowhere near that acidic, but it's obvious the grape has the potential, and sometimes that tart flavor is perfect. After all, one night you want the vanilla ice cream, another night you want the lemon sorbet.
So what's up with the name Albet i Noya? First off, it's not "Albert i Noya", there's no r in there.
I know that sometimes royals place the regnal ordinal between two names. For instance, His Majesty Carl XVI Gustaf is the current King of Sweden*. Sometimes that number comes before the nickname, as in France with Pepin III the Short, Charles II the Bald, and Eudes I the Insane. However, the regnal ordinal is always a capital Roman numeral. So a few hours of tracing the family tree of Spanish monarchs went down the drain.
Albet i Noya is the family name connected with the winery, but what about that little i? The answer lies in one of the many delightful Romance languages that aren't well known outside of their regions. In this case, it's Northeast Spain's Català (Catalan). In Català the copulative conjunction and is i instead of y as in Castellano or standard Spanish. And then you just follow the rules of the particle y Spanish naming custom that became popular in the 16th century. Mystery solved!
I'm pretty impressed with Spanish wine websites. Many are trilingual, in English, Spanish, and the regional language. I even saw one in Galego (Galician) recently. You don't see this much with Italy and France; I'd love to see a website published in Saintongeais, Occitan, or Friulian.
*He gave her things that she was needin'.

A Small Bouquet of Rosé

How about some extra posts this week?
With much rejoicing, I celebrate the fact that dry rosés have enough market share to remain on the shelves well past the hot summer months. These wines have gone from curiosity to fad in the past couple of years, but I think they still occupy an odd spot in the old food+wine thinking. While these are the perfect beverages of summer, let's not forget their ability to pair with a wide range of food and to appeal to a wide range of palates and experience levels.
First up is the 2006 A to Z Oregon Rosé. $12, 13% abv, and a label set primarily in Zapfino. Made from 100% Sangiovese harvested in Southern Oregon. It's pretty rich and full bodied for a rosé, and is a little off-dry. Aromas and flavors of strawberry and watermelon, and it's got a bit of that Jolly Rancher approach to both. I paired it with leftover mushroom lasagne and a little salad... Comfort food on a rainy afternoon.
Now let's turn our attention to Spain with the 2007 Condesa de Leganza Rosado. $12, 12.5% abv. Pure Tempranillo from the La Mancha region. Nose of light raspberry and apples. Bright, refreshing flavor with a sangria tang to it. Dry but fruity, with a tannic edge on the finish. On the color front, is it just me or are many rosés getting darker?
For some reason I've been on a linguistics kick recently, so get ready for some more amateur analysis. While Alaskan native tribes don't really have dozens of words for snow, some languages are better at describing nuances than others. Greek is far better than English when it comes to love, which would make life far less complicated for our nation's teenagers. In a similar vein, the French have an impressive vocabulary to describe rosés. Here's a partial list, and I'll note that doing research in a language you don't fully speak is sort of like walking with concrete blocks tied to your feet, so my apologies for any errors in translation, and I welcome any native-speaking French rosé fans to correct this list, which is in alphabetical as opposed to chromatic order:

blanc taché - stained white
clairet - pale
faible - weak
gris - gray
jaune orangé - yellow-orange
oeil-de-perdrix - eye of the partridge (Très poétique, non?)
orangé - orange
pelure d'oignon - onion skin
rosé franc - free or frank pink
rosé jaune - yellow-pink
rosé orangé - orange-pink
rosé vif - sharp pink
rosé violet - purple-pink
roux - russet-red
tuile - tile (like a Spanish tile roof)

Obviously other languages have their own descriptive terms for the various shades between red and white, but I leave that exercise to other writers. In closing, often cross-cultural understanding can produce something new and unique. The American songwriter Jim Steinman wrote "Total Eclipse of the Heart", which was popularized by Welsh singer Bonnie Tyler and it became a huge hit in the mid-80s. Years later the Norwegian band Hurra Torpedo made it awesome with the help of some household appliances.

2007 FERRARI-CARANO PINOT GRIGIO

I stopped at one of our bigger wine stores in town to stock up on several bottles as we were having friends over for a cookout on Memorial Day. I quickly found several chardonnays that were decently priced and then turned my attention to the Pinot Gris. Seeing that the Kings Estate was on sale with a savings of $6.00/bottle I reached for one. The lady who was helping me locate the Pinot Gris stopped me and pointed out today's reviewed wine, the 2007 Ferrari-Carano Pinot Grigio. Telling me it was new to the Arkansas market, was every bit as good as the Kings Estate, and was also priced at $14.99/bottle, I let her talk me into this one. I wish I hadn't! Not that this is a bad wine, by any stretch, it's just no Kings Estate and it is definitely over-priced at $14.99/bottle. Some melon and peach were noted on the nose with kiwi, honeydew melon and lemon picked up on the palate. Not the kind of finish I like, rather biting and harsh, made this wine mediocre in my book. I can't recommend this wine at any price point above $7-8/bottle. I gave it 2 Corkscrews and only arrived at that rating after my second day of tasting. I thought it might get up to the 3 Corkscrew rating the second day but, alas, it wasn't meant to be. I suggest laying off this one unless you get a great, closeout price on it. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine!

2006 LA VIEILLE FERME COTES DU LUBERON

Today's reviewed wine is a lovely Cotes du Luberon Blanc White from Rhone Valley Vineyards. I found this one recently and was shocked to find, first, a French anything in Arkansas, and second, a really good French white! This one comes with a screw off cap, even the French are giving into that trend, but after pouring my first tasting I quickly forgot about the lack of cork. Lots of fruit, particularly green apple, with just a hint of dryness, peach and oak. A very nice floral bouquet and spice led to a beautiful, smooth finish. I paid around $11.99 for this one which means if you're just about anywhere else in the world you can probably find it for $8.99 or less. I easily gave this find 4 Corkscrews and highly recommend it. I know I'll be picking up several more bottles in the coming days. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine!

2006 ERRATIC CHARDONNAY

Never has a wine been more appropriately named. The 2006 Erratic Chardonnay from Washington state definitely has an "erratic" taste. On the nose maybe a little hint of lemon but couldn't pick up anything else. When I first tasted this it was well-chilled and the flavors on the palate were pretty much non-existent. It got a little better after it warmed a few degrees but I still couldn't find anything to recommend about this wine. Finish was, how can I say this with a straight face, erratic! Not smooth but also not harsh. Just finished. I paid $8.99 for this bottle which was about $6.99 too much. Avoid this one. Not sinkable but darn close! Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine other than Erratic Chardonnay!

D.C. TRIP, OLD EBBITT GRILL & INDEBLEU

Business called me back to D.C. and another stay at the Grand Hyatt. If you missed my last trip where I stayed there you can read about it here. This time I got the room I reserved and all was well. Fortunately #1 was able to come with me on this trip which made it much more enjoyable. We landed at Reagan National around 1:00 p.m. on Wednesday and promptly arrived at the Grand Hyatt by 2:00 p.m. A great thing about this hotel is that I've always been able to check-in early, even though the "official" check-in time is 3:00 p.m. I've even seen people checking in at 9:00 a.m.! After we got settled we headed off to the Old Ebbitt Grill , a Washington institution that brims with history and ambiance. We went on the light side when ordering, I had a single crab cake special, which was almost 100% crab meat, and #1 ordered a Caesar salad, a cheese sampler plate that we shared, and a dozen sumptuous oysters that we also shared. All Oysters and Shrimp Cocktails are half-priced after 3:00 p.m., f.y.i.

After this great lunch we headed back to our king-sized bed for a luxury that comes round once every 4 to 5 years or so. An afternoon nap! Nothing like turning on the air conditioner full blast, getting the room nice and dark, and snoozing for a few hours. Nirvana! After our siesta we did a quick search of available, area restaurants and made a reservation at Indebleu . We made our reservation through OpenTable.com which I highly recommend for major city reservations. It is fast, easy and costs nothing. They've also got a lot of good information about the different restaurants and reviews from users and others. Indebleu ended up being an excellent choice! #1 ordered the Seared Foie Gras while I had a special called Crispy Sea Bass. Both were delicious and the Foie Gras was so good that we ordered a second serving. We accompanied all of this Asian-fusion styled food with a delicious bottle of a red, French Pinot Noir, whose name, unfortunately, I didn't save. It was offered by the glass but we talked the waiter into letting us buy a whole bottle at a 4-glass price. We still came out ahead and it was really good wine. Day 2 in my next post. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine in D.C.!

DAY TWO: D.C. COAST AND DYNAMITE VINEYARDS

Day Two in Washington, D.C. and the weather is great. You never know how it is going to be in mid-Summer as the heat and humidity can be stifling. A morning filled with a meeting led to a rendezvous with #1 back at our hotel and then a short walk to a french bistro for lunch. We chose Bistro D'Oc across from the infamous Ford's Theater and had an acceptable lunch but nothing to write home about, or post about on a blog. Selections were mediocre and their wine was uninspired and overpriced. Our dinner choice, however, was much different. We made reservations at D.C. Coast and were promptly seated when we arrived. A great vibe at this restaurant and good food/wine to match. We had the Caesar Salad w/anchovies, the Pan Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, the Double Cut Pork Chop and finished it off with a delightful souffle'. All of our selections were delicious+. Of course we had to drink something with this and both ordered the 2006 Dynamite Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. A very light, buttery wine with nice acidity and apple and grass noted on the palate. Very refreshing finish and so tasty we each had a couple of glasses. Check out this restaurant when you're in D.C., and try the Dynamite Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, as I don't think you'll be disappointed in either. Sit Long, Talk Much, Laugh Often, Drink Wine!

HESS CABERNET SAUVIGNON - 2006

>> 1/17/09

A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvgnon, 8% Syrah, 4% Merlot. 45% Mendocino Country, 30% Lake County, 25% Napa County. 13.5% alcohol.

TASTING NOTES:

Dark red color with ripe berries and red cherries on the nose. Solid mouth-drying tannins, tart cherries and cranberries, black currant, vanilla, oak and spice on the palate. Black cherry with a hint of sweetness on the finish. Medium-bodied with a smooth mouthfeel.

SCORE & RECOMMENDATION:

87 PTS

A very good entry level Cabernet. Good fruit, structure and easy to pair with foods. Suggested retail is around $17 which means if you can find this wine on sale for around $15 I think it is a decent buy. It is a little simplistic lacking some complexity but both the alcohol and oak are in check. Definitely the kind of wine that will be an easy crowd-pleaser but at the same time it won't wow anyone.

MEINHARD FORSTREITER GRUNER VELTLINER SCHIEFER - 2006

Dry white Gruner Veltliner from Austria with 13.5% alcohol.

TASTING NOTES:

Pale gold color with complex nose of lime, citrus, pear, orange and hints of petrol. On the palate there's honeydew melon, sour apples, pears, orange creamsicle and banana on the finish. Some frizzante in the glass. Oak and honey-caramel emerge on the second day.

SCORE & RECOMMENDATION:

92 PTS

Packed with flavors and complexity. This is a superb Gruner. Retails for around $17 making this a tremendous offering. I love this wine and highly recommend it.

CHATEAU REIGNAC BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR - 2000

Made from 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13% alcohol.

TASTING NOTES:

Dark purple color with a beautiful charcoal-smoked oak nose. Lots of barnyard on the nose as well on pop and pour. Medium-bodied with lush dark fruits, hints of chalk and chocolate, earth and flowers, tobacco and vanilla. Great plum finish. High acidity suggests this wine has many years to go ahead of it.

SCORE & RECOMMENDATION:

92 PTS

Simply terrific and beautiful effort. Gorgeous fruit and balance. Wonderful character and smoke. Bought this wine for around $20 on release. It is worth twice that price if you can find it. Love this wine.

MATCH VINEYARDS BUTTERDRAGON HILL CABERNET SAUVIGNON - 2002

>> 1/16/09

14.6% alcohol. This is the first year this wine was made.

TASTING NOTES:

Dark ruby color with chocolate, cocoa, and raspberry on the nose. Black cherry, berries, creamy vanilla, and charred oak upfront with currant, plum and blackberries on the mid-palate. The finish is rich with well-defined flavors of chocolate covered raisins. Smooth tannin and well-balanced.

SCORE & RECOMMENDATION:

92 PTS

Wonderfully put together wine especially for a first vintage. Drinking very well right now although will definitely last a few years in the cellar. Nice integration of oak and alcohol. This wine is more subtle and polished for a California Cabernet. If you are looking for a big over-the-top Cab with power, this isn't the bottle for you. It is more graceful and understated effort. Retails for around $60 a bottle.

QUINTA DO PORTAL COLHEITA DOURO- 2002

Produced from Tinta Roriz (45%), Touriga Franca (25%), and Touriga National (15%) grape varieties and aged for 9 months in oak barrels. 12.5% alcohol.

TASTING NOTES:

Ruby color with creamy oak and red fruits on the nose. Overly simplistic and very smooth with black currant and blackberry notes. Lighter bodied than expected.

SCORE & RECOMMENDATION:

82 PTS

You almost can't go wrong with Douros from Portugal, but this one comes up short. Too simplistic and not all that enjoyable. For around $10 a bottle this is a very affordable wine but it is not one I'd recommend.

LEGRAS BRUT CHAMPAGNE BLANC DE BLANC

Happy New Year! 2009 Begins with a pop, as in Champagne cork.

TASTING NOTES:

Pale yellow-tan color with aromas of sourdough bread, yeast, and green apple. Toasted oak flavor components are accented with lots of lemon zest and apple. Very dry, with great acidity. Menthol flavors emerge very late on the finish.

SCORE & RECOMMENDATION:

91 PTS

A very round and polished Champagne. Bubbles on this one were still vibrant on day 3 and the the flavors were as sharp as when first opened. The alcohol was showing through on the nose at first, but settled down rather quickly as this sparkler opened up. Retails for around $40 making it a solid competitor in its price setting.

Mount Pleasant Winery - 2003 Norton

This past week we opened another bottle from our Norton collection, a 2003 from Mount Pleasant Winery. We had purchased this wine after it had won the 2005 Missouri Governor's Cup - at a premium of course. Mount Pleasant Winery is one of Missouri's oldest wineries, first established in 1959. It later became a casualty of Prohibition, but was re-opened almost 50 years ago by the Dressel family. And today, the Norton grape is as great a part of the enterprise as it was a century ago.
Their 2003 Norton is a dry, full bodied wine and surprisingly spicy - more like a Syrah than a Norton. Initially there was also only a slight grapey flavor and the spicy finish was dominant. However, as the wine was left to breathe, the spiciness subsided in favor of the grape flavor. We discovered this after opening the bottle pairing with a bowl of chili. Initially the spiciness from each offering contradicted each other and we set the glasses to the side. After dinner, we tried the wine again and found that "decanting" mellowed the wine where it was much more complementary to spicy foods. The wine worked in both scenerios; if you would like a Syrah styled wine - drink this Norton immediately. If you are looking for a more traditional Norton - full bodied wine - let the wine decant.

Virginia Wine Lover Magazine

The Virginia Wine Lover Magazine published our article on Virginia Meaderies in their November newsletter. We also received our copy of the Winter issue of the quarterly magazine. There are nice articles on the Shenandoah Valley and Corks - plus a dinner with Thomas Jefferson.

Barrel Oak Winery

After many months of delay, we finally visited Barrel Oak Winery, another new winery in Fauquier County. Sharon and Brian Roeder officially launched the winery in May 2008 and we have been lax in visiting - even after several friends and fellow bloggers had favorable impressions after their visits. This weekend the winery was hosting a Pumpkin Decorating for the Kids! so we drove out Route 66 for a visit. Several other families had already beaten us to the winery, and this was apparently a slow day. There were also several four legged friends as BOW encourages visitors to bring their leashed pets. Not only are dogs allowed on the patio - they are also welcome inside the tasting room. Our dogs like that idea.
Barrel Oak is located on a hill overlooking Little Cobbler Mountain and the John Marshall Oak Hill estate. The two year old estate vines roll along one side of the property and soon BOW will have a local source of Traminette, Seyval Blanc, Merlot, Chambourcin, Vidal Blanc, Petit Verdot and Petit Manseng. In the meanwhile, the winery sources grapes from several well established vineyards including Keswick Vineyards. The production facilities are built into a hill and the winery is heated and cooled by a geothermal system.
When we arrived, the children quickly found the pumpkin painting area and we were escorted to the tasting bar. The winery opened on a grand scale - producing over a dozen styles of wine. That's a large selection for any winery - not to mention one in its infancy. We started with the BowHaus White, a semi-dry blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Vidal Blanc. It has a citrus flavor and balanced acidity - and it was selected as our picnic choice for the day. The Seyval Blanc and Chardonnay Reserve were next with the later being a favorite. It is made in the traditional European style - sur lees - and fermented in stainles steel and aged in neutral French oak. The final white was their Viognier and this was the most interested version of this varietal we had tasted. It is made dry - but contains some sweetness. The citrus flavor makes way for a silky finish produced by aging in Hungarian oak. This is a nice wine. It's no surprise that the Late Harvest Viognier was also a good dessert styled wine.
Turning to reds, we started with the Bowhaus Red a table wine blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petite Verdot, Malbec, and Touriga; Bordeaux and Portugal in a bottle. For a young wine, this is remarkably smooth with great flavor and little acidity. This was our second choice for the afternoon's picnic. The next wine was the Tour Ga Franc, a blend of Cabernet Franc and Touriga, and possibly the first time we had tasted this combination. It is also smooth with a little more spiciness than the Bowhaus Red. Plus, $2 from every bottle is donated to the Lance Armstrong Foundation. They followed with several Bordeaux styled wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. The last was our favorite and perhaps our overall favorite; it is dry, full bodied with cherry and some chocolate flavors. This is a big wine. The other Bordeaux styled wines were not bad either - the Cabernet Sauvignon had a unique nutty finish whereas the Merlot and Cabernet Franc both had full cherry flavors with a slight spiciness to the Cab Franc.
Besides being only an hour outside of Washington, D.C., Barrel Oak Winery offers several incentives to visit. They host various events each month ranging from Friday night movies, Saturday night music, barrel tasting, book signing, plus more.... Even after the events, visitors must have an incentive to return which usually has a direct correlation to the quality of the wine. We really liked the wines, both the whites and reds - and the wine is competitively priced to other wineries in the area. So count us as future returnees.
More pictures are available at Compass Tours at Wine-Compass.com.

2007 Cuvaison Chardonnay $16

Rating: 3.5 Stars

Fresh, lively aromas or peaches, lime, vanilla and minerals. The initial entry is smooth and clean with a soft creamy finish. Bright citrus and stone fruit flavors linger with a refreshing acidity. Lots of stone fruit flavors with hints of honeysuckle and honeydew melon.

1998 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyards $28

Rating: 3.5 Stars

Aromas of French oak and tobacco. Flavors of cherry, leather and rich in oak. Wonderful tannin base to ripe berry flavors - a long toasty finish. A little less in body compared to the '99 vintage along with complexity.

1999 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon $16

Rating: 4.5 Stars

Acclaim: Smart Buy

This is a great value for the quality that's in the bottle. This cab has an incredible luscious nose full of oak and dark cherry aromas - those classic cabernet qualities! It has good structure - there's big oak influence but enough cherry and berries to provide an elegant balance. The tannins are soft but could go on for a few more years. The leathery qualities truly shine in the finish along with the right balance of fruit. This is a great buy, not necessarily a heavy cab, but it certainly stands on it's own. This vintage year cab is drinking incredibly well now but should dazzle you in a couple more years.

1999 Sullivan Cabernet Sauvignon $85

Rating: 5 Stars

Acclaim: Special Selection

Coeur de Vigne meaning "Heart of the Vineyard" is a perfect description for this wine. This is a private reserve, 100% Estate grown, blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. Deep red color, this wine offers aromas that tantalize the nose. Wonderfully hints of dark cherry, creamy vanilla, and rich oak makes you wish one could swim in such a mixture. Flavors of cherry, raspberry and a finish of chocolate and oak spice. Perfect harmony and balance.

2006 Seghesio Zinfandel San Lorenzo $60

Rating: 5 Stars

Acclaim: Special Selection

This Zinfandel is flawless and doesn't disappoint. From the aromas, to the initial hit on the palate, through the lingering finish... perfect. Bright bing cherries, jammy blackberries and a spicebox of herbs and pepper liven your senses. Fresh, REALLY fresh wild berries hit the front palate and linger through the finish which boasts bittersweet chocolate and gushing, chewy tannins. Perfectly balanced from start to finish.

2005 Baldassari Family Wines Syrah $31

Rating: 5 Stars

Acclaim: Highly Recommended

Simply stunning. Enticing aromas of wild black berries and spices wrap nuances of rich earth tones, vanilla and hearty oak. Letting it open up reveals aromas of smokey, aged beef and herbs. Beautifully deep hues set up the blanket of fruit that bursts of the palette. Perfectly balanced. Loads of full-bodied tannins that truly linger but never overpowers the complexity this wine offers.

McWilliam's Hanwood Estate 2006 Riesling wine review by Billy

Nose: creamy sweet lemon custard aroma
Palate: very dry, sprightly citrus with robust acid for strength and structure.
Finish: lively finish of green grass that is over too quickly.
Overall: I am blown away by the quality of this Australian Riesling. I paid 6 dollars for this on sale but it usually doesn't go for more than 12. This is an excellent value white. Absolutely brilliant in its simplicity which adds elegance. Perfect for parties and entertaining.

--A Review from The Wine Cask Blog. Creative Commons: Attribution - ShareAlike 2.5 applies

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